August 25

Today is one of those days for my family that often gets a little ignored. You see, August 25 is often move-in day at either MTSU or BSC or is a big football game, etc., etc. So, August 25 often passes by without much fanfare.

And yet, August 25 is a very important day in our family--Daddy's birthday! So here are just a few words to celebrate my dad.

I often tease my dad for many reasons (all of them justified, of course): wearing tube socks, preferring Indiana Jones-style hats, reading Adler while listening to Brahms while watching a football game. The list could go on, but I'll stop it there. But the one thing I don't say often enough is how much I respect my dad. He has more integrity than most any person I know. He is often faced with difficult decisions at work and seems to always make the right choice which will bring the most dignity to the situation. He has an incredible way of being both respectful and stern in order to ensure that the matter is dealt with in the most appropriate way.

I have learned a lot from my dad. He coached my softball teams and sat in every choir performance and bad high school theater production (though he did create an alliance with his friend Tom and make fun of people in the audience to get through it, but I digress). He always tried to be there for me, which was no small feat while running a small city at the university.

He has endeavored to teach us to respect each other. I often tease about the psychological warfare that goes on in our house--I would much rather be spanked (which I never was) than reprimanded for being disrespectful (which I often was). But I was always treated like an adult.

I will always treasure Saturday mornings with doughnut runs, cutting down real Christmas trees, and going to student affairs parties with college students who treated me like their little sister and my dad like their dad.

All this to say, Happy Birthday, Daddy! I hope it's a good one, even if you are moving boxes at BSC all day!

Love you! (Though not too much to put up this picture...I think it reinforces the thing I said earlier about integrity.)

SA Snippets

perThis post is just an amalgamation of thoughts I've been having for a while now, things you might or might not want to know, tidbits of cultural knowledge which I've picked up over the past 7 months (can you believe it?! 7 months!).



1. It is getting warm here. This is good, because I have been entirely unsure of how to dress during the winter. We typically have what you might call "Indian summer," except that it occurs all in one day. A normal day goes something like this: wake up--it's FREEZING. Usually somewhere around 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Walk/drive to work in the cold. Still freezing. All morning, it's as cold as ice in my classroom which is made of concrete. Lunchtime--warming up. Generally around 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Walk home--HOT. Now, it's not really hot--only about 72--but it feels hot because I had to walk to work in such cold that I am layered up to my eyeballs. Shed layers and go to class. Still quite warm. 4pm--in class. All of a sudden it's FREEZING again, and I have shed layers and left some of them behind in expectation that I won't need them again. Oops! By 5pm, it's back under 50 degress Fahrenheit. I don't know how people cope.



2. Schools in South Africa. Schooling in South Africa, and often across Southern Africa, is very different than schooling in the U.S. First of all, everyone pays for schooling, whether in a public (government) or private school. The idea behind this is that if everyone pays something, then everyone will be more invested in the education of their children. It is still a debate as to whether or not this is actually the case. In addition, everyone wears a uniform. In fact, I've never heard of a school here that wears civies (non-uniform). I actually really like this idea. At my school, McAuley House, we have students who are from vastly differing economic backgrounds; however, I have no idea which students fall into which category. Students often are tagged by teachers due to their socio-economic status, so requiring learners to wear uniforms reduces some of those tensions. I certainly can't speak for the inter-student tensions, but I imagine it reduces those, as well. In addition to uniforms and school fees, a major difference is the power differential between teacher and student. Let me give you an example: when someone walks into my classsroom, the entire room stands and says, "Good Morning, Mrs. So and So." Teachers seem to have a much more formal relationship with their students. This is likely due to the colonial-style schooling of the past from which we still have a few throw-backs, such as the prefect system. Very interesting.



3. At the moment, we're having a bit of a meltdown in the Ministry of Health. On August 8 (consequently the day before National Womens Day--a public holiday in SA), President Thabo Mbeki fired Deputy Health Minister Nozizwe Madlala Routledge on charges of making an unauthorised trip to an AIDS conference in Spain. Madlala Routledge contends she had verbal approval which is typically given far before written approval which usually arrives after the fact. Anyway, the whole thing reeks of set-up.

Backstory: Health Minister Manto Shabalala Msimang has repeatedly denied an AIDS crisis in SA, even though over 1 in 4 people have either HIV or AIDS. Many of you may remember that she went on public news two years ago saying that HIV does lead to AIDS. In addition, she made the claim that proper nutrition can be more beneficial to the fight against HIV/AIDS than anti retroviral treatments (ARVs). Of course, the health profession has been up in arms against Shabalala Msimang for years now, claiming that she has single-handedly spread HIV/AIDS by promulgating false information. Unfortunately, President Mbeki and Health Minister Shabalala Msimang go way back into the apartheid era when they were in the same group of exiled students sent to the UK for education. So, every time Shabalala Msimang has said something daft, Mbeki has defended her.

Continue story: So, Deputy Health Minister Madlala Routledge suggests that she has been set up and punished for speaking out against the AIDS epidemic and not "towing the company line" which is that there is not a problem. The public seems to agree. Now, there is public outcry for the removal of the Health Minister. The Democratic Alliance (the main opposition party within SA) has found records that Shabalala Msimang stole a watch and other medical items from patients while working in a hospital in Botswana during her periods of exile. In addition, the Sunday Times has purported that her recent medical records (after her much-publicised liver transplant) show evidence of an alcohol problem. They also seem to suggest that President Mbeki might have illegally arranged for Shabalala Msimang to "jump the queue" in getting a liver. So, it seems that we have a crisis on our hands. A very interesting, shady crisis.

And you thought US politicians were the only crazies out there! For some fun editorial cartoons on the subject, you can visit the following link which will take you to my favorite cartoon. Others are on the same site.

Wishing you all a good laugh!

This African Life

I've been doing a pretty sufficient job of telling you about my travel life over the last few months. I haven't, however, been keeping you posted on the day-to-day interests of my life. Now that I have far less travel going on, I think I'll be able to keep you posted a little easier.

One of the big parts of my life which you may or may not be aware of is my involvement in re-chartering the Rotaract Club of Johannesburg. Rotaract is the 18-30-year-olds version of Rotary. It is a service club which is made up of students and young professionals and there are all kinds of things which we can do. There are Rotaract Clubs in most major cities. If you're interested, check out www.rotaract.org. You can also check out our Rotaract website at www.rotaract9300.org.za (our district's website) or http://rotaract.johannesburg.googlepages.com. We're not listed on the district website yet, but we will be.

Anyway, we've been re-chartering this club which was once thriving and now defunct. As in most major cities, the populus of Johannesburg has moved to the suburbs (can anyone in Birmingham say "over the mountain"?), leaving the city center to languish. Nonetheless, like many U.S. cities, Birmingham included, there has been a renaissance in the city center, and many groups are making a concerted effort to move back. This is true for both our Rotaract club and our sponsoring Rotary club, the Rotary Club of Johannesburg (consequently both the first Rotary and Rotaract Club on the continent). We are attempting to get involved in the inner city and help with the rebirth which is already occurring.

One of the projects which our Rotaract Club has adopted is NOAH, or Nurturing Orphans of AIDS for Humanity. Desiree, the president of our club and another Ambassadorial Scholar, works as a research assistant at NOAH and has put us in contact with some exciting service opportunities. One of these opportunities, I shared with my mother and sister when they visited from the States. We saw the Kliptown NOAH Ark, where 50-75 AIDS orphans and vulnerable children (children whose parents may not have died but who are still affected by the disease) are given daycare. We delivered some jerseys (sweaters) knitted by the ladies of a local old folks home (nursing home--don't you love the SA use of non-PC terms?!) to the Ark, which the Ark managers loved. There are hundreds of these Arks throughout South Africa, and they are caring for the over 20 million AIDS orphans in Africa.

Yesterday, our club ventured out to the Daveyton NOAH's Ark, which is between Jo'burg and Pretoria (in BFE, in other words). It was well worth the trek! We brought six laptops and six desktop computers from our members and the NOAH offices and set up basic computer skills for the Ark workers. Each Ark is equipped with a computer, but most of the Ark managers are residents of the community where the Ark is located. These places are mostly townships where having a computer would be unheard of. Most of the people whom we worked with had never touched a computer before. Those who had knew only the basics. We talked about the different parts of a computer--the mouse, the desktop, the start button, and I made ridiculous analogies like "the start button is like that big file drawer in your desk that holds everything" or "the hourglass is your mother telling you she hasn't had her morning cup of coffee so you're not yet allowed to talk to her."

By the end of the day, everyone knew how to turn the computer on and off, how to use a mouse, how to open Microsoft Word, and how to make letters capitalised without using the CAPS LOCK key. Some even learned how to draw a table. It was incredibly humbling to see someone whose mouse finger was shaking from nerves transformed into an avid computer enthusiast by the end of the day. I heard countless exclaimations of "OH!" and "Wow." By the end of the day, we had made new friends and were being asked when we would next return. We all decided that we could make this a monthly event.

You see, without computer literacy, it is impossible for someone to get a job which isn't as a labourer. If you can't type, you can't be a lawyer, a secretary, or an accountant. You can't get any of the jobs which most Americans take for granted. You certainly can't get these jobs when you can't even turn on the computer. I have sat many times waiting for a computer in the lab only to watch someone take 10 minutes to type a two-sentence email. Computers are a huge benefit to the lives of those on the African continent, but they are not yet readily available, affordable, or accessible. Just something to think about as you, no doubt, spend all day today online.

I am so excited to be involved in a group which really cares and which really attempts to make a difference in the lives of others (as well as of ourselves!). A good day in Jo'burg, for sure.

Kruger, round 2

After leaving Maputo, we drove for about an hour to the border of Mozambique and South Africa. When we got to said border crossing, you would have thought that we had reached the promised land from the line we encountered. After a line of an hour and a half, we drove over to the SA border patrol which we slipped through within 15 minutes. Don't ever let me say that SA is inefficient ever again!! EVER!!

We then drove for hours until we reached Kruger National Park, my promised land for real. I won't bore you with more Kruger wildlife trekking stories, but suffice to say that we saw lots of birds, no big cats, tons of elephants (literally), and a black-backed jackal which is a new find for me (pictures of all will be posted when my computer loves me again). Also, we slept in a rondavel (one of the round African mud huts you see in the movies) and made a braai which we then danced around singing "Rehab" to the bemusement of our neighbor children. We met our new friends Tilda the male elephant, Long John, and several others, and Niv almost froze to death on our morning drive. We really did have a great time. Like I say, Kruger is a magical place.

We all returned to Jo'burg tired but still friends (pretty good for such close quarters for so long!). Then the Cape Town gang left the following morning and I got back to research (aka my life).

So now I'm here, enjoying a new semester and a new routine. School is well, classes are interesting, and I'm not totally stressed or lost yet. More to come on that shortly! My love to you all!

Maputo, the beginning of Under African Skies

Sorry this has taken so long to post--I've had a long week with classes beginning again, but I'm back and not too stressed! My literature review was looked over by my professor who called it "fantastic." That really was fantastic considering that he doesn't use superlatives--ever.


On to recount some travel journeys for you.


After our time in St. Lucia was over, we got on the road to Maputo. You can't travel straight through SA to Mozambique because the roads are simply not good enough. Most are gravel and a 4X4 is advisable. So, we decided to go through Swaziland. We didn't realize at the time that Swaziland, directly translated, means "land of the ubiquitous speedbump." After hitting them all, we ended up on a national highway which, it turns out, is unpaved. After an hour and a half on an unpaved road in the middle of Swaziland where we rode through a riverbed populated by a herd of cows and not seeing people for almost the entire drive (are you beginning to feel the desperation here??), we found our way back onto a paved road and to the border. The exciting part about being in Swaziland was another stamp on the passport, and a visit to my first monarchy!





In this picture, you can see the dirt road, and you can barely make out the river and herd of cattle...

The border crossing into Mozambique wasn't too bad. We think we might've gotten taken for a ride a bit with the car entrance fee, but we're naive Americans, so what could we do?? After about 20 minutes, we were into Mozambique and on our way to Maputo.

Now, I don't know how many of you know this about me, but last year I spent a month in Mozambique, a little less than a week of which was spent in Maputo. I love Mozambique. My entire trip to SA has hinged on excitement about going to Mozambique again to visit. And while I didn't get to visit the orphanage in Cambine or the guest house in Chicuque, I did get to hang out in Maputo and visit with a dear friend, but I'm getting ahead of myself. As we drove into Maputo, we circled a roundabout, and suddenly I knew where I was...Avenida 24 de Julho, the main drag in Maputo. I actually knew my way around! And not long after that, we drove past the Methodist Guest House where I stayed last year. Of course, every emotion you can imagine passed through my body. I really wished that my companions from last year were there with me to experience the joy at returning to Maputo. Maputo marks the beginning of my true love for the continent of Africa, so this visit was incredibly important to me.

My traveling companions on this journey were a little taken aback, however. You see, we live in South Africa, better known as the United States of South Africa. We have most luxuries, cities are at least relatively clean, etc. Maputo is a bustling city full of vegetables, shoes, and tires being sold on the street, garbage everywhere (the typical method of disposing of trash is throwing it out of wherever you are), and people galore. Also, the driving is horrendous. I was exceedingly glad that Niv was in the driver's seat and I was not. We finally found Avenida Patrice Lumumba (100 points for the person who can identify this African liberation leader), and after circling the block a few times, we found the Base Backpackers, a meager, but very quaint backpackers with a great view of Maputo Bay. We disembarked to find my friend Kristian at the backpackers waiting for us.

Maputo Bay

After checking in, we all piled back into the car and drove to my all-time favorite seafood place in the world (and I can say that), Costa du Sol. Costa du Sol sits on the Indian Ocean, and the seafood only hits the pan in between the ocean and your plate. It's wonderful. Also, if you've ever heard of Mozambican prawns, you've only had them done right in Mozambique. Each prawn is literally the size of your hand! I was in paradise, once again. And, once again, I was missing Mama Bette, Maravilla, Naftal, Telmo, and my BSC traveling companions. But Kristian and I reminisced and were quite content.


The next morning, Niv, Emily A, Alli, and Emily K departed for Tofo. Kristian and I bid them farewell and set out on our own adventures in Maputo. Maputo is very different than South Africa in that the crime rate is quite low. So, we felt very comfortable walking most anywhere. Our goal was the art museum, but we wandered a good deal before getting there, making our way toward the central market, having a great language exchange with my broken Portuguese and a non-English-speaking woman at a beautiful shop, buying some fabrics, etc. We finally made it to the art museum and had a great time analyzing the art. Most Mozambican art, we have found, carries the themes of scarcity of resources, overcrowding, and revolt. It was quite interesting. Most of these works of art were pre-civil war (which lasted 20 years), while the post-civil war artworks often had themes of reconciliation, uncertainty, and still crowding. It was a beautiful morning.

Statue of Samora Machel, a Mozambican liberation leader.

This tree starts out as one kind of tree, a vine grows on it, and eventually the vines reach the ground and take root. Then the tree gets enveloped by the new vine plant and eventually a new tree has grown!

The next day, we struck out for the Saturday craft market, where we found some gems. I bought a nativity scene set in a baobab tree, Kristian bought a more conventional nativity scene, and also a procession of refugees carrying their belongings on their heads (she has been working with the refugee department of lawyers for human rights) from a man who is apparently relatively famous for his work. I also bought a journal covered in capalana cloth and two long, thin batik cloths. Kristian made it away with a piece of driftwood carved to look like an elephant after some very shrewd bargaining on her part.

Kristian reading on the deck of the backpackers

For lunch, we headed to the park nearby and ate at a local restaurant. Of course, the menu was entirely in Portuguese, so we had to be clever in our ordering. I ordered chorico (known to you as chorizo) sausage, but Kristian ordered "moelas estufadas." I wasn't sure what that was, but she insisted on ordering it. Turns out, moelas estufadas are chicken giblets. Nice. After our lunch, we watched a few tennis matches at a local tennis club.

That evening, we went to another art gallery to see some more contemporary art. I had been waiting for a year and a half now to see the Mozambican conflict art which is made of old automatic machine gun parts. I really enjoyed it. I think my favorite was the one called "Libertas" which was a bird with tail made of springs. Beautiful. After eating some dinner at a very elaborate Thai restaurant (with incredible prawns, pictured below!) and seeing a show at the art gallery, we met up with our old friend Naftal.




Naftal is the director of Volunteers in Mission for the United Methodist Church in Mozambique, and he coordinated both Kristian's and my visit to Mozambique from Birmingham-Southern. When Naftal pulled up to pick us up, he got out of the car, gave us both hugs, and said, "Lisa, is it really you?" I was so thrilled to get to see an old friend. We went back to the backpackers and had tea and a good chat. Naftal will soon be moving to Zimbabwe to begin courses at African University in Mutare. For those of you who are aware of the situation in Zimbabwe right now, you will understand that he is a bit nervous. But he is going with his wife and two children, and I am sure that they will be just fine.


We also discussed all of our friends from our visit and Naftal gave us updates on each one. Mama Bette is still well, as is Maravilla. Telmo is still driving for the UMC, but hasn't improved much on his English. The orphanage in Cambine has moved into its new compound and is doing well, and the next day Naftal was sending a medical group to the hospital in Chicuque. CMC is not yet finished with construction, but will be within the year. We were so glad to hear of the progress being made and to get to have some time with a dear friend.




Me, Naftal, and Kristian (Kristian and I look pretty good for no shower all weekend--our hot water was broken!)

We didn't realize that the excitement for the evening wasn't over. Apparently there was a French hotel nearby, and being Bastille Day, they shot off fireworks! That was pretty nice since my 4th of July was quite devoid of such things.

The next morning, Kristian and I walked to the local Anglican church to see what it was like. They had an English service, and we were intrigued. The service itself was pretty typical of an African Anglican church in my experience. What was really special about it, though, was the invitation we received after church. A family with four girls (and probably 14 other children who were related or friends) invited us to lunch at their home in Matola, a suburb of Maputo. Kristian and I gladly obliged and were treated to the most wonderful home-cooked lunch with a loving family who enjoyed our stories about the US and from whom we were given stories about Mozambique and Tanzania. It was really a treat.

We returned home in the early evening and met up with the other weary travelers who had just returned after a long journey from Tofo. We ate dinner at the Indian restaurant across the street and turned in early for a departure to Kruger in the morning.

I awoke early on the next morning and drove Kristian to the bus station to catch her bus back to Pretoria. As I was returning to the backpackers, I had a strange occurence--a chicken crossed the road in front of me! Imagine that you're driving in the capitol city of your state or province and a CHICKEN walks in front of your car as if it was no big thing. Crazy!


I recovered from the shock, bought the group some breakfast, and we departed for Kruger. More on that later.


Views of Maputo. Now imagine the chicken!



Love to you all!